Sound/Light/Motor control
Mini Motor Car
35T Davenport
Tank Engine
Power Chassis
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Detail Parts
Technical Section
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Monday, Jan 12, 2015

Have been testing the newest sound system.  Fully stand-alone for those that want or need to build their own controller or panel, or want to use a different motor controller.


Tuesday, Nov 11, 2014

Visit the Sound/Light/Motor control page to check out the programming features.  The new 25 ton locomotive has been designed and tested, pricing and pictures coming soon.  Next up is the new 1.5" scale 0-4-0


Needed equipment obtained from Progress Machine Tool and Cool Chem

The tools I used: some fine rotary cut-off wheels, flush-cuts, the Coolchem system, a soldering iron, a sharp x-acto, tweezers, a cautery, and a way to verify the wheels are in gauge.

Start with the front truck.  If you successfully complete the front truck then the rest is similar.  If you find that it's too difficult, it's easily replaced.

The front truck, with wheels pressed in on the axles to the correct gauge.

The easiest part, trimming off the flat area yeilds the perfect size for Nn3.  Glue the sideframes back on following *exactly* the Cool-chem instructions for engineering plastic.  The resulting bond is extremely strong.

The completed front truck with the wheels pressed in on the axles to the correct gauge.

I trimmed the axles with these two primitive tools, I had previously broken my Sandvick super flush-cuts *sob* and a hand file would be better for clean-up.  If you've gotten this far with good glue joints then the rest is more of the same.

After unsoldering the pickup wires and motor wires from the circuit board, the motor easily unsnaps from it's holder.

The Motor mount has two clips that I had to release from the bottom with a small flat-head screwdriver.  This exposes the mounting screw and washer for the rear truck.

The rear truck disassembled.  Don't lose those detail parts!

Remove the pickup wipers by unclipping them from the top and bottom tabs.  Note how they go on, you'll have to modify truck to re-create the top tab after narrowing.

*IMPORTANT  Note the height of the center pin as you dissasemble the rear truck.  It rides higher than you would expect and it's easy to re-assemble it too low.  A lot of material must be removed from the center pin, a test fitting with the trucks is recommended before glue is applied.

A test fitting of the narrowed rear truck.   If assembled properly you will glue the retaining tabs for the pick-up wipers directly to the center post.  After the glue set I went back with a razor saw and cut a short slot at the glue joint so the wipers would clip on correctly (not shown)

The truck sideframes don't sit flat so I used this screwdriver bit holder as a rest.  I'll say it again: follow the Cool-chem instructions exactly for best results.

An overview shot of the power truck dissasembled.  The worm gear retainer unclips  to allow the power truck to be dropped out the bottom.

The power axles narrowed and the cover with an initial trim.  More had to be trimmed, including both protruding center tabs and further enlarging of the gear holes.  If you damage the clips don't despair as this can be heat welded on, but it is possible to make the conversion while keeping the removable nature of this cover.

The pick-up wipers for the power truck are very fine and easily damaged.  Remove them by trimming off the heat welded tabs and set them in a safe place.

I used a sawblade style cut-off wheel to cut across the power truck just above the double reduction gear shaft, and down both sides to remove a cover.  I prefer the super-fine small diamond wheels from Precision Machine Tool but couldn't find my set for this conversion.  Take it slow and don't cut too deep.

The double-reduction gear removed from the assembly by sliding the retaining shaft out, as shown.  Most of the spacer opposite the small gear will need to be trimmed off.  Trial and test-fit is the key to success.  Use a sharp knife and trim a bit at a time, checking against your narrowed wheelsets.

Test-fitting the assembly.  Material can be taken from the outside of the truck too, down nearly flush with the channel molded to contain the pick-up wipers.

I used a cautery to heat seal the cover to the truck as glue might get to the gears.  These are available in bait and tackle shops, sold as a device to cut nylon fishing line if you don't know a surgeon.  A super-fine tip on a soldering iron would work well too.

Trim and filed flush the axles for the brass gears.  Then glue the pickup wipers back onto the power truck tower, note the Z bend made to around the area that was narrowed.

After trimming and filing the axles, I used my screwdriver to position the power truck while I did final assembly, making sure the pick-up wipers were behind the wheels and the bottom cover snapped on securely.

A spacer made out of 0.040" styrene is needed because one of the retaining pins is attached to the cover that was narrowed.

The 40 thou styrene block glued into the frame with ACC or Cool Chem.

Power truck test fitted, note the retaining pin riding on the new styrene spacer.  The power truck will be offset from center by 20 thou, Tom Knapp ground away the side of the metal frame nearest the camera and added a shim to compensate for this.  Most won't notice or care about the slight offset.

Power truck inserted, worm gear replaced and top cap snapped back on.  Rear truck test fitted, retaining screw and washer not yet installed.

Finished and ready to test run